It's Easter, the old pagan festival of spring turned upside down in this southern place where spring festivals are celebrated in autumn. On this southernmost island of this southern place, I am walking the South Cape walk with my daughter during her school holiday. She laughs at my old-mum awkwardness, unsure of my footing along rocky paths; she walks ahead of me through various forests of differing personalities, greeted by trickling creeks and the openness of windy grasslands.